Vitamin C Serum: Algenist GENIUS Ultimate Anti-Aging Vitamin C Serum

Algenist GENIUS Ultimate Anti-Aging Vitamin C Serum

Algenist GENIUS Ultimate Anti-Aging Vitamin C Serum is a serum formulated with a vitamin C derivative, alguronic acid, and microalgae oil to minimize the appearance of deep wrinkles, age spots, and discoloration, and to strengthen skin’s texture. While I am not a huge fan of putting collagen in creams — it is too large to penetrate the skin and does little more than sound fancy and hydrate — I will go so far as to say I like this serum’s inclusion of the promising new vitamin C ester 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, as well as antioxidant Alguronic Acid to improve skin firmness and smoothness and microalgae oil to deeply hydrate skin and help retain moisture for up to 5 days. It’s a great serum for those with normal to dry skin. For more details, read on!

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a More Stable, Stronger Form of L-Ascorbic Acid

Esters are taking the skin care world by storm. As I’ve noted before in a review on a retinol ester-containing product, concentrations as low as 0.06% of retinyl retinoate are proving to be nine times stronger than retinol — that is, producing results equivalent or similar to 0.50% retinol.

In a similar way, 3-O-Ethyl ascorbic acid is a derivative consisting of vitamin C and an ethyl group that is proving to be stronger and more stable than ascorbic acid, at least in early studies. In a clinical skin lightening test by Spincontrol France, a solution containing just 2% 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid was found to improve skin whitening and radiance after just 28 days of twice-daily application (Cosmetics and Toiletries). Keeping in mind that similar results are produced in separate studies with 15% L-ascorbic acid — 7 times as much! — this means that 3-O-Ethyl ascorbic acid certainly holds promise.

As for stability, the only difference between 3-O-Ethyl ascorbic acid and ascorbic acid structurally is that the former has an ethyl group bound to the third carbon position — but it makes a big difference. What this means in plain English is that 3-O-Ethyl ascorbic acid is more stable in the presence of light, heat, and air than ascorbic acid when used in cosmetic products. Samples of 2% 3-O-Ethyl ascorbic acid have been retained for 1 month in a 45°C (113°F) oven, and there was no change in color or purity (Cosmetics and Toiletries).

So I do believe that esters of some of our favorite active ingredients at FutureDerm are the future of skin care — retinyl retinoate instead of retinol, for example, or 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid instead of L-ascorbic acid. Truth be told, I do say the future because I would like to see studies directly comparing the efficacy of each set of these ingredients head-to-head before I personally go back and change my entire skin care regimen to ester-based derivatives of active ingredients. But, I do see it as a distinct possibility in the near future.

Algenist GENIUS Ultimate Anti-Aging Vitamin C Serum has a high concentration of 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid — the highest I’ve seen in any skin care product to date. For that reason, I’m giving this a major thumbs-up.

Chlorella Prototecoides Oil May Help with UV-Damaged Skin

Chlorella is an exciting ingredient. Originally used as a superfood rather than a topical skin care treatment, chlorella has been gaining steam since it was first used in body wraps at spas.

Chlorella is most helpful for skin that is sun-damaged or inflamed. Chlorella has been found to inhibit inflammatory processes via a pro-inflammatory pathway called the NFkB pathway (Clinica Chemica Acta, 2005). Chlorella may also be helpful in protecting skin cells from UV damage by upregulating collagen production in fibroblasts and inhibiting collagen-degrading enzymes (European Journal of Dermatology, 2008).

As an oil, chlorella oil is very hydrating and absorbs quickly. It’s honestly not my favorite delivery system, but it works well enough. It’s the reason why I recommend Algenist GENIUS Ultimate Anti-Aging Vitamin C Serum for dry to very dry, or normal, skin types.

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide Firms Skin. Period.

What is great about palmitoyl oligopeptide is that it significantly stimulates collagen production in human fibroblasts, as shown in a 2007 study in Dermatologic Therapy. When used twice daily for a significant period of time – about six months – this means firmer skin, provided that other factors remain the same (i.e., weight, sun exposure, etc.).

***Research by Algenist.

Research results:

Within 10 days of use:

– 93% said skin looks more resilient, smoother, and brighter

After 28 days of use:

– 98% said it reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles

– 87% said it corrects the appearance of skin discoloration

Personal Use and Opinions

Algenist GENIUS Ultimate Anti-Aging Vitamin C Serum is clear and non-scented. It has a thicker texture than most vitamin C serums, due to the polymethylsilsesquioxane (a silicone) and high glycerin content. It is not sticky and glides across the skin well, owing to the polymethylsilsesquioxane and Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane. Butylene glycol helps this product absorb into the skin quickly. Algenist GENIUS Ultimate Anti-Aging Vitamin C Serum is a more hydrating serum than most. The combination of chlorella oil, niacinamide, collagen, ceramides, glycerin and silicones make this serum seem more like a 2-in-1 light moisturizer and serum than just a serum. That said, it is great for normal/dry to dry skin types.

Bottom Line

Algenist GENIUS Ultimate Anti-Aging Vitamin C Serum is a fantastic serum for anyone concerned with the appearance of deep wrinkles, age spots, and discoloration. I’m thrilled that this serum contains such a high concentration of the new vitamin C derivative 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid — the highest concentration of that derivative I’ve seen to date! — and I’m pleased with the chlorella oil for normal/dry to very dry skin as well. Overall, this makes a superb vitamin C serum, and I’m happy to recommend it for normal/dry to very dry skin.

Ingredients: Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Sodium Citrate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Niacinamide, Ethoxydiglycol, Algae Exopolysaccharides, Chlorella Protothecoides Oil, Vinyl Dimethicone/ Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Citric Acid, Algae Extract, Peg-12 Dimethicone, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Vegetable Collagen, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance, Coumarin.